July 2002

Can't see any clouds

The weather. In this monthly report of July, the first thing to mention is the weather: Since more than four weeks, we have fantastic weather without any exception. The sky is deep blue, not a single cloud shows up at the firmament. Thus, the sun rises and sets in Sydney become a daily natural spectacle that is unparalleled. You all know the photos of Australia's Outback where the night slowly approaches from the east whilst the west bursts into red flames of the sky. It is exactly like this! The evening sky is most beautiful half an hour after sun set, around 5:30 p.m. Then, the west shines in orange-red and is reflected in the water, giving us the impression of living next to a lava lake. The city's lights are already ignited but don't yet show any impact in these colourful fireworks. The last yachts head home and sometimes a rower puts his back into it for the secure boatshed. Each evening, the neighbours go to the wharf for a calm cigarette in this colourful spactacle. We greatly enjoy this incredible weather for two weeks. During the third cloudless week, neighbourhood talk is focused on this subject. The first friends start complaining about their dry gardens and our lips long for daily lip ice ("Labello"). After four weeks, I sit at the computer in our dark study room to write this report whilst the sun tempts outside. What a pitty ;-)

Housewarming party. On Saturday, June 29 (thus belonging to the June report...), we give our first "Housewarming Party". Claudia bought seafood at the fish market and prepares a brunch of onion cake (since it is winter here), calamari, octopus, and fried white bait. And then our first seven guests in this new home country arrive to inaugurate the house. In the evening, we have a special appointment: A symphonic concert at the Opera House! Therefore, we take the ferry to Circular Quay, have a glass of champagne and enjoy the view of the glowing city. Later, we let us carry into higher spheres by the sounds of Rachmaninov and Prokoviev and admire the architecture of the Opera House. While after the concert, most of the audience head for the parking lot to their cars, we gently stroll back to the ferry and take the waterway home.

Whales. We were told that many whales can be seen at Sydney's coastline in winter time. Our experience resembles a drama in three acts:

  1. At the first trial, Claudia hikes alone to the rocks at the "North Head" near Manly. These hanging cliffs form the boundary between the Harbour and the sea and are said to be a good whale watching location. Equipped with binoculars and food she stands by her post for three hours – and then, two black backs appear in the blue sea. For quite a long time it is not obvious who dives there in the water. Finally, the seals swim on their backs and curiously regard Claudia.
  2. The next weekend, the two of us hike the famous "Spit-Bridge-to-Manly-Scenic-Walkway" (see also Tips for visitors to Sydney, German only), a path through the Harbour National Park with fantastic view points over the south shore and the Middle Harbour with its many small sandy beaches. As we let contemplatively wander our eyes at a cliff with "Aboriginal Rock Engravings", we see kayakers looking into one direction as if spellbound. In this direction, the sea is churned up by many back fins. A herd of more than 20 dolphins is playing in the Harbour!
  3. The third weekend, we jointly try our whales-luck at the North Head at Claudia's cliff from the first trial. The sight is good (see section about weather above), the sea is smooth: ideal conditions. Nothing! Absolutely nothing. A black and white cormoran on the hunt, three slices of toast, and a plastic bag are all we spot in the sea. And then suddenly: A small brownish penguin rafts along the coastline underneath where we are. Penguin, there is no doubt! We knew that there are penguins in Cape Town and in South Australia, but in Sydney? Later we read that a small colony of "Little Penguin" breeds in Sydney Harbour; the only colony on Australia's mainland.

We still haven't spotted any whales; but seals, dolphins, and penguins. What will cross our way when we try it next? ;-)

Peter in our kayak

Paddling on Lane Cove river. Our spare time activities are now decided according to wind: When there is wind, we sail, when it's calm, we paddle. Opposite to our suburb, the Lane Cove winds kilometers through Sydney. Close to the Harbour, it is still surrounded by suburbs but further up, the Lane Cove becomes a National Park (even an entrance fee for cars applies). The cove is narrow, the water sheltered, and no ferries enter here. An ideal destination for a long kayak trip. From our home, we account 10 min. until the entrance of the cove and 45 min. until the start of the National Park. There, the cove's banks are covered by mangroves, the water is shallow and we feel reminded of the river Jagst paddle trip with Oli, Rebecca, and Annabelle in July 2001. This city is simply marvellous! And Claudia discovers the kayak for grocery shopping: Close by, there is a sandy beach next to a super market. Ideal conditions to bunker milk, joghurt, and muesli. During two kayak trips, Claudia encounters rafting penguins next to our Cockatoo island. Now, Peter tries to catch up with the penguin spotting...

From all over the world. The evening after our sailing race on Sunday, July 14, is especially worth to be mentioned. We sit together in the "Bald Rock" pub, which is so secretly hidden that no tourist would ever find it. Giant steaks are offered for AU$ 12, including a beer. One by one, the sailors assemble next to the fire place and both of us enjoy talking to people we only knew from sight. So, we chat with Poppy and Andy from England, with Erica and Mark from South Africa, with Kerri, Kim, Michael, and George from Australia. Kerri used to live in Remscheid, Erica and Mark in Seeheim-Jugenheim, George in Lörrach. On our question "Is here anybody real Australian?", Kerri answers (in German!) "Ich". And as we talk about our home page and Claudia explains in English that "heinpit" is a male name in northern Germany, Mark nods and says (in German!): "ja, ja, friesisch"!!! How could we feel as strangers in this melting pot of cultures, nations, and world travellers?

Happy Palmy: Water wherever you are looking to

Kuring-gai Chase National Park. A scheduled trip to the Blue Mountains is postponed to later in the year. Just about everybody we asked to join us answered: "Do you know how COLD it is there now?" However, we are invited to a hike of several days in September or October, when the night temperatures will allow camping. Hence, we stay close to the coast during winter: We escape for a day trip to Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park 40 km north of the city. On the one side, the Tasman Sea breaks at the beach, on the other side are the sheltered waters of the Hawkesbury River, a harbour similar to Sydney. Sandy beaches on both sides... Equipped with hiking boots, we climb some cliffs and prepare for – who would have thought? – whale watching.